It has become clear to me that people generally know absolutely nothing about ticks and the transmission of Lyme disease, but seem to think that they are experts.I am no expert, but I certainly know more than the parade of ignorant clowns that commented on that NY Times article.
Here are the things that you need to know, in layman's terms.
The ticks that we are generally concerned with have a very simple life cycle. A cluster of up to a few hundred tiny eggs hatch into larvae that crawl up a short stem of grass or whatever is handy. At this point they have only 6 legs and are not infected with any diseases. Neither Lyme disease nor rocky mountain spotted fever nor ricketts or anything else like that is passed from the mother tick into the eggs.
The larvae are waiting for their first host. Usually this is a white-footed mouse. White-footed mice are everywhere and their bodies are extremely low to the ground, making them simply the most likely warmblooded thing for the larval ticks to grab hold of. If the nymphs don't get a host within a certain period of time, they will starve to death.
White-footed mice can carry Lyme disease. This is the stage where Lyme-bearing ticks tend to pick up the disease.
Sated and full, the larvae drop off 2 or 3 days later. They look like tiny, round grapes. Usually they fall off in a bedding area where the mouse or other host is sleeping or remaining still for a while. The ticks will digest their blood and grow a little bit bigger. They molt, shedding their outer shells and emerge from the process with an extra pair of legs and a little more size.
Now they want a bigger host. The newly larger ticks will crawl up higher vegetation to wait for a much taller animal to pass by. Sometimes this is a raccoon or a black bear or you or your dog. But most often in the eastern US this will be a whitetail deer.
Whitetails are where the action is for ticks. Deer are what they will feed on for the rest of their lives (which is usually only a few more meals) and it is where they will probably meet other ticks to mate with. Once a tick gets on a deer it has hit the jackpot. Because deer are somewhat social animals and they are creatures of habit that often use the same trails and bedding and feeding areas. When a bloated tick drops off of a deer, odds are that when it is ready to feed again it will be able to crawl up a blade of grass or to the end of a twig and sooner or later another deer is going to pass by and pick up some hitchhikers.
After mating, the female tick will lay her eggs on the soil where they will hatch the following spring and start the whole thing all over again.
I have personally found that when wearing a pair of jeans, bleached to near-whiteness, I can walk through a meadow on my property which is used by deer and see the differences instantly in the numbers of black dots that crawl up my legs. Walking along the path that most of the deer follow in that area, I will get up to 20 ticks on me from one end to the other. Wheras if I wander aimlessly through waist-high, standing dead grass that offers no useful food to the deer, I emerge with usually 5-8 ticks. Those few were probably picked up while going past bedding spots that the deer sometimes use in the tall grass.
Overlay a map of trails regularly used by white-footed mice (yes, they do have little paths that you might not know exist) with a map of trails used by deer, and there you have the primary geography of ticks.
A key fact that you need to take away here are that the teensy little larval ticks are not dangerous. They itch like hell and they usually come in clusters, but since you are the first host they can not give you any diseases. The bigger the tick is, the more likely it is that it carries Lyme disease. This is on account of the fact that it has rolled the dice again every time it encounters a new host.
It takes about 24 hours after biting for a tick to transmit Lyme disease to you. Get it off quickly and you'll be ok. It will still itch for a week or two, but you won't get sick. Note that you cannot get Lyme disease from eating the meat of an animal that had it. Venison is just as safe to eat as beef from cows that stand around in fields full of the same ticks from visiting deer.
Now that you've got a good idea of the life cycle of the enemy, remember it. There are, broadly, 3 different ways of getting rid of ticks in a particular area. Remove the white-footed mice as hosts, remove the deer as hosts, or kill the ticks directly using chemicals or diatomaceous earth.
'Removing them as hosts' can mean killing mice or deer, but doesn't necessarily. That could also involve swabbing them down with chemicals that repel and kill ticks. Or it could mean erecting a physical barrier to keep them out. Or perhaps encouraging the success of other species that hunt or directly compete with those animals for food and territory.
It is possible to affect the population of white footed mice within a relatively small area of as much as a few tens of acres. One can put out boxes of cotton balls soaked with chemicals that kill ticks and the mice will use that cotton to line their nests. On my own land, I have encouraged high populations of non-Lyme carrying meadow voles because they compete with white-footed mice and push them out of the area. This will reduce the number of larvae and nymphs that you have to deal with. But I do not think that simply reducing numbers of infected whitefooted mice on an area that one person can practically manage will have the effect of making a major dent in the number of Lyme-carrying adult ticks on the property in the long run.
That is because deer have much larger ranges than white-footed mice. Depending on the quality of the habitat, a typical Virginia buck during the course of his second year of life will range over an area of around 1,000 acres. Young bucks that are dispersing from their natal territories will travel even farther. Older bucks tend to have more compact home territories. I don't recall the numbers for does off-hand. But in any case, the deer on your property are spending a lot of their time on other people's land. Where they are picking up nymph stage and older ticks that dropped off of mice which you had no control over. Unless you are managing a truly huge piece of property, you cannot hope to make a meaningful dent in the recruitment of new ticks into the population.
What you might be able to do is limit the numbers of deer in the areas of the land that you most often use. The way that I did that, inadvertantly, was by fencing the 2 acres immedately around my house and not planting anything that deer really want to eat. I also have 3 dogs that run around inside the fence and generally discourage deer from coming within.
Sure, the deer could jump over. But deer are lazy and they won't bother unless there is food within. In several of my past homes, I had lush and inviting gardens full of hostas and roses and all sorts of other things that I enjoyed planting and tending to. Now I have 6 acres to manage and its all I can do just to keep the poison ivy back. Get rid of the plants that the deer are after and you'll get rid of the deer. Also remember that by mowing a large yard frequently, you are causing the grass to constantly send up tender green vegetative growth that deer like to eat. I gave up on mowing most of my property more than a few times a year. Consequently, the tall grass has developed thick, hard stems that don't taste very good. It is no longer a food source for them. So the deer stay out of the fenced area.
Within the fence, I have very low tick numbers. I won't say that it is zero, but it is shockingly lower than what I find right outside of the fence. Between the fence, the meadow voles, the dogs and the long grass I have found a combination that works with what I know about tick and deer biology to nearly extirpate ticks from the few acres where my kids play outside. Your mileage may vary.
[Photo courtesy of Waldo Jaquith under Creative Commons license]


